Scout Tents

Tents are the most common sleeping accommodations for Scouting members. Other options include sleeping in a clubhouse or a homemade shelter with a pioneer in agricultural poles or rope and plastic fabricated chips bump. Tents come in all shapes and sizes. When scouting is often used large heavy cotton patrol tents, where an entire patrol at a time can sleep. Scouts for 15 years and older who are more individually camp have so far more often in small tents. Most small tents are variations of the following types:.
Note: The following text uses words not in the Dutch language used throughout. Tension lines are the same things as ropes, and cock (k) networks are designed pegs. Brush cotton dry with a soft brush. The mud flaps are of PVC, so see the reasons explained above. Always try to remove stubborn dirt with a stiff brush. If it still does not, try using a wet sponge and water. Always rinse well and let the tent dry. It can not hurt to end the cleaned spot in the canvas to impregnate, to prevent the leaking tent on that spot. By impregnating tent fabric, the life of the fabric is greatly increased. This impregnation in different ways, depending on the material where the fabric is made of. Brush the tent after the first use dry, put it on pavement (not on grass or solid surface). Lay the tent taut and anchor it to the ropes in relation to wind. Brush the outside of the canvas with a soft brush (on a stick) or sponge, impregnated. Treat the edges and seams extra good. Leave the tent after inpoetsen just lying in the street until it is dry. Impregnation never in full sun. Repeat the treatment every 2 to 3 years. The consumption of impregnating these scout tents is about 1 liter per 6 m2. Treat the same tents as the new tents. Put the second treatment after one year, then it may be every 2 to 3 years. The consumption is about 1 liter per 4 to 5 m2. the same process again as described above. The inpoetsen requires more power, consumption depends on material, but a large dome tent costs about 1 liter. A tent is dry stored. A tent wet storage is not only bad for the canvas, but with a little luck you will discover the following year even creatures that have come to gnaw on your tent. Back from a tent camp is always moist, even if only ground moisture or humidity. After the camp, the scout tents can always have the chance to dry. Preferably this is done by the tents to hang. Airy deposit is also possible, but the tent must be rotated daily. Take care on the mud flap, which are often wet and therefore make the rest of it wet again. So if the tent dry before being aired. If the tent has rubbers, they must be stored separately because they may release. scout tents must be stored so dry but also be able to breathe. scout tents without air in the fabric can shorten the life of the tents. Possibly not in the tents tentzak store. The habit of rolling up scout tents very tight, is wrong, this can hardly get air to the canvas! PVC materials that are long-term storage should be rubbed with talcum powder, which prevents sticking. If scout tents are properly stored, so airy, they just lie there and do not need to be aired. The tent despite everything rot, it is not pleasant for the tent. It shortens the life of the canvas seriously. The rot is almost always caused by moisture. A special form of rot we call it "weather". If you rot or 'back' in your tent, you must do the following:. The decay or "weather" problems through the use of special anti-agents again. These funds can be bought at the scout tents shop, or else may have other camping stores. The funds are also not cheap, so prevention is better than cure. Holes in the groundsheet in some cases (depending on the type of material) to repair them by sticking close to a bike like the band. Cracks and holes in the fabric can generally be repaired by a professional sail making. Some sailmakers in the Netherlands seem to give discounts to scouting. . .
.